To walk the Pekoe Trail is to walk through the living history of Sri Lanka. While the entire 300km network offers breathtaking vistas, the segments connecting the ancient hill capital of Kandy to the historic Loolecondera Estate are perhaps the most evocative. This is a journey that transcends mere hiking; it is a pilgrimage through emerald tea carpets, mist-laden cloud forests, and the very site where the world’s love affair with Ceylon Tea began.
For those seeking to undertake this storied trek, there is no better starting point—or sanctuary to return to—than Dendrobium House. Perched in the Hanthana Mountain Range, this luxury hotel doesn’t just offer a view of the trail; it has plantation culture woven into its very fabric.
The Ascent: Hanthana’s Biodiversity
The journey begins in the Hanthana mountains, a region defined by its rugged peaks and incredible biodiversity. As you step onto the trail from the doorstep of Dendrobium House, the air changes. The humid heat of Kandy City, just 12km away, is replaced by a crisp, highland breeze scented with eucalyptus and wild lemon grass.
The flora here is a lush tapestry of indigenous species. You’ll pass through segments of secondary forest where the namesake Dendrobium Maccarthiae orchid occasionally hides in the dappled light. Look closer at the forest floor, and you may find various species of ferns and mosses that thrive in this high-altitude humidity.
For the birdwatcher, this stage of the Pekoe Trail is a symphony. Keep your binoculars ready for the endemic Yellow-fronted Barbet, the vibrant Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot, or the Crested Serpent Eagle soaring on the thermals above the ridges. If you are lucky, a morning trek might reveal a Purple-faced Leaf Monkey crashing through the canopy, or the footprints of a nocturnal fishing cat near the mountain streams.
Walking Through History: The Tea Frontier
As the trail winds south away from Kandy, the wild forest begins to give way to the more ordered beauty of the tea estates. These are not merely farms; they are historic landmarks. The transition from the “jungle” of the early 1800s to the “tea country” of today is written in the stone walls and narrow paths you traverse.
The views here are peerless. On a clear day, the Hanthana range offers glimpses of the Victoria Reservoir in the distance, a blue jewel set against the green velvet of the hills. The trail undulates through “the tea” (as the locals call the plantations), where the vibrant green of the bushes is punctuated by the colourful sarees of the tea pluckers, whose rhythmic work has remained unchanged for over a century.
Loolecondera: Where it All Began
The ultimate destination of this scenic adventure is the Loolecondera Estate, located at the end of Stage 2 of the Pekoe Trail. In 1867, a Scotsman named James Taylor planted the first commercial plot of tea here—a mere 19 acres that would eventually transform the global beverage industry.
Reaching Loolecondera via the Pekoe Trail feels like entering a time capsule. You can visit the site of Taylor’s original cottage (the chimney is all that remains), walk through the very first tea clearings (Field No. 7), and sit on “James Taylor’s Seat”—a stone bench overlooking the valley where he famously sat to contemplate his burgeoning empire. The views from this vantage point, looking across the vast expanse of the Central Highlands, are some of the most profound in Sri Lanka.
The estate is also home to a historic tea factory, one of the oldest on the island, where the scent of withering tea leaves hangs heavy in the air—a fragrance that is both earthy and sweet, embodying the essence of the hills.
The Perfect Base: Dendrobium House
An adventure of this magnitude requires a home base that understands the balance between rugged exploration and refined luxury. Dendrobium House serves as the perfect bookend to your Pekoe Trail experience.
Designed by the acclaimed architect Channa Daswatte, the villa is a contemporary colonial masterpiece. After a day spent navigating the trails, there is no greater reward than retreating to one of our six luxury suites. You might choose to soothe trail-weary muscles in the heated outdoor jacuzzi or share stories of the day’s sightings around the fire pit as the highland mist rolls in. The property can also provide the guidance of an inhouse naturalist to help guide the way and provide insights on the biodiversity along the way.
Our culinary philosophy mirrors the trail itself: authentic, fresh, and deeply connected to the land. We champion a farm-to-plate experience, using produce from our neighbouring organic farm to create nourishing meals that replenish the soul. Whether it’s a hearty Sri Lankan breakfast to fuel your ascent or a sophisticated dinner to celebrate reaching Loolecondera, the food at Dendrobium House is a highlight of the journey.
Practical Tips for the Trail
The path from Kandy to Loolecondera is more than a hike; it’s a story of transformation, nature, and the enduring spirit of the hills. We invite you to stay with us at Dendrobium House and begin your own chapter of this scenic adventure.
Secure Your Escape: Contact us at dendrobium@serendipityretreats.com to book your suite and arrange your guided Pekoe Trail adventure.